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Protecting
and Maintaining Decks are a wonderful way to add value to your home and increase your quality
of life. However, protecting decks from the ravages of nature presents some
real challenges. They take a real beating from the elements because they
are usually damp and cool on the underside and sun dried and hot on the
top side. Rain, airborne pollution and dust settle on it, outdoor furniture
is dragged across it and people walk all over it. The wood fibers get fractured
and compressed, mold and green algae begin to grow and pretty soon the deck
that looked so good when you built it, begins to lose its aesthetic appeal.
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Pressure Treated Wood
In the Northwest, the substructures of most decks are constructed of pressure
treated wood. This will protect it against rot and insects. It imparts a
green color to the wood, but sometimes has a brown pigment added to the
treating solution to hide the green color. CCA Treated wood is highly resistant
to insects and decay organisms and usually comes with a long-term warranty.
It should always be used when the wood is in ground contact or in marine
environments, but is not as aesthetically pleasing as cedar.
Cedar Decks Cedar decks are the most
common deck surface in the Northwest. Cedar is very resistant to rot and
insects, but is not completely impervious to either. The surfaces of the
deck boards need to be protected from the elements. This will preserve and
maintain the aesthetics and strength of new wood. There is a school of thought
that says that you should let new wood weather for about a year before you
do anything to it. The reason being that new wood has mill glaze and the
pores are full of natural oils. Therefore, they do not accept finishes very
well. This is true to some degree, but we don’t normally recommend letting
it age a year, except when the wood is yellow cedar. You see, once the tree
is cut down, its defense mechanisms are cut off and Mother Nature will try
to take it back. It is nature’s way of recycling. You must take a proactive
approach to wood care, so apply a wood finish as soon as the wood is dry,
and plan on doing it again about a year later. Then, you can usually go
two or three years between maintenance coats.
Mill glaze
Mill glaze is caused from plainer blades at the sawmill that peel off the
final 1/4" of wood surface. These blades are very hot and bare down pretty
hard on the wood surface. Mill glaze is a combination of the surface being
singed by the plainer blades and fiber compression by the downward pressure
exerted on the wood surface and dried tannins on the surface. Most new decks
have mill glaze and this phenomenon will inhibit proper penetration of a
wood stain. We have a product called Deckmaster Wood Brightener that will
help open the wood grain and allow for better penetration of the preservative.
It is best to allow the deck to get wet and dry out a few times to help
open the wood pores. Then, apply the wood brightener and rinse.
New Wood vs. Old Wood
New wood cells usually have a high concentration of water and natural oils.
This prevents new wood from soaking up as much preservative as old wood.
Often times, new wood can be like a wet sponge, so when you apply a finish
initially, it just doesn’t soak up the stain like it will a year later.
Testing at the USDA’s Forest Products laboratory has shown that damage to
the surface cells of a deck can begin in just a few weeks. Therefore, even
though you have mill glaze, wet wood and closed pores, we strongly recommend
that new decks be finished with a high quality deck finish like our TWP®
(Total Wood Preservative) as soon as the surface is dry. The initial application
should protect the wood surface from organic growth, ultraviolet light and
water absorption. However, it won’t last as long as subsequent treatments.
In year two, clean the deck with a mild detergent and apply another coat
of finish.
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Deck
Stains
If you try to
save a few bucks and use a cheap finish, you will probably have to treat
it every year. Stay away from products with "water seal" in the name. Also,
avoid products containing linseed oil since they usually turn black with
mold within a year in our wet Northwest climate. Plan on cleaning your deck
every 6 - 12 months and apply another coat of finish every 12 - 24 months.
Most over-the-counter products need to be applied once per year. Wood Care
Systems sells TWP® ® (Total Wood Preservative). It is the highest quality
product you can get and it is easy to maintain.
Deck
Cleaners
If the deck is heavily soiled with lots of mold and algae, plan on renting
a pressure washer or borrowing one from your neighbor. Wood Cleaners fall
into two categories; bleaches and acids. Look at the labels under the precaution
section for chemical names like Sodium Hypochlorite, Calcium Hypochlorite
or Sodium Percarbonate. These are best to use on dirty and moldy surfaces.
Read and follow label instructions.
If the wood is not moldy, just dull looking and grayed out from the sun,
then an Oxalic Acid containing product is best. Read and follow the directions
despite your inclination to just jump right in and get started. Most of
these products are concentrated and need to be diluted before use, so follow
the directions. And as a precaution, with all chemicals read and obey all
safety instructions.
Stripping and Sanding
It the deck has had a film-building product applied in the past
or if it’s still beading water in places, it will probably have to be stripped.
Strippers are very tricky to work with so either go to a supplier who can
walk you through the process or hire a professional to do it. Wood Care
Systems will help you in both areas. You may have to do some sanding after
the deck is cleaned. Also, tough stains or painted decks may need to be
sanded to remove the last stubborn areas. A word of caution about sanding.
You should set the nails before you sand. Otherwise, you will sand off the
galvanizing coating on the nails and they will begin to oxidize and cause
black, metal stains in the deck. (Oxalic acid based wood cleaners will remove
nail stains.)
Pressure Washing
Pressure Washing is a very efficient way of cleaning wood. However, it can
do just as much damage. Here are a few tips: First, you need at least 2.5
gallons per minute of water flow and a machine rated at least 1500 psi.
Use a 25 to 40 degree tip on the wand. Run the engine at about half throttle
and start washing. Keep the spray tip at least 6" from the surface, preferable
about 12". This will minimize the damage done.
Staining the Deck
The best way to apply most deck stains is with a low-pressure sprayer. However,
beware of over spray onto glass, plants and painted surfaces. Mask when
necessary. Tarp areas below the deck that drips of stain might discolor.
Do the rails and spindles first. Apply the material to the deck evenly,
overlapping about 50% with every pass until the whole deck is covered. Avoid
application in direct sunlight. Use a pad to work it into the wood and smooth
out any puddles. Read and follow all application and safety instructions.
TWP® is a registered trademark of Amteco, Inc |
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